OUTRIGGERS
ABOUT THE PADDLE
The (3) blade options are 9.25″, 9.5″, and 9.75″.
This is measured horizontally at the widest point of the teardrop. The 9.5 is the go-to if all else fails. It is by far the most popular size in all areas.
THE BLADE
Cameron inspects the Ozone Built paddle, after months of working closely with Brian to perfect the blade
The shape of the blade came from my friend Kekai Keahi who taught me how to make paddles. We had all kinds of different shapes but I really liked this one so it’s the one that I stuck with. It was his latest design and one that he came up with after we went to Tahiti for Hawaiki Nui in 2005.
I started out making my paddles with a flat back. If you see my earlier edition paddles around they will all have flat backs. About 2 years ago I changed the back to have a very slight scoop. It is called a 15-degree radius. If you take a circle with a 30’ diameter and then cut an 18” section off of the perimeter you will have the scoop in the blade. This scoop was added to get even more bite.-
I would say that most paddlers want a paddle that allows you to have the best bite/catch since it’s the most important part of the stroke but that’s not always the case. Some paddlers prefer to slightly pull the paddle through the water instead of having a 100% lock up front while pulling the canoe passed the blade. Sometimes it’s just too much for their body to handle or they don’t have the strength to do it. This is the main reason that I always offered 3 different sizes. This allows the paddler to choose how much resistance they would like on the blade.
A common question will be what size blade should I get for OC1, OC6, or V1, etc. Generally, paddlers with a slower stroke will use a blade with more resistance(bigger) and paddlers with a faster stroke will use a blade with less resistance(smaller). As for OC6 most will use a bigger blade than they do in OC1 due to having more weight to pull forward.
These are some of the paddles built by Brian prior to arriving at the final version ready for production
I try to stay away from recommending a blade size for anyone in an OC6. If they are using for OC6 then that means that they are in a club. Clubs have coaches and coaches usually know what they want for their paddlers. Length and blade size depends on the technique that they are teaching as well as the strength and ability of their paddlers. If their coach isn’t available for sizing then I will give my recommendation. This is where you will need to know your community best and learn what people in your area are using. As I’m sure you already know, you will find that the theories are all over the place. That’s why paddling is so awesome. There isn’t one answer for all. It’s an endless search that continues to revolve.
The (3) blade options are 9.25, 9.5, and 9.75. This is measured horizontally at the widest point of the teardrop. The 9.5 is the go-to if all else fails. It is by far the most popular size in all areas.
THE BLADE
The (3) blade options are 9.25, 9.5, and 9.75. This is measured horizontally at the widest point of the teardrop. The 9.5 is the go-to if all else fails. It is by far the most popular size in all areas.
THE SHAFT
We went through many different shafts before we finally came up with this one. We tested so many woods and layups. Most paddles use your standard poplar. It is inexpensive and strong enough for the job. The problem is that it is heavy. To solve this problem most shafts are made skinny to lose the weight.
I like paddles with a thicker shaft. I first learned this from a pro tennis player that said they make tennis rackets with thick handles so that they don’t cramp up. So, I started making thicker shafts and I really liked the comfort of the grip.
Poplar was too heavy for this option so after endless glue ups and strength testing we ended up using a poplar stringer for strength and Vertical Grain Sitka Spruce on the sides. The Spruce is consistently light and strong. This combination was by far the best for flex and strength. The darker wood on the upper part of the shaft is Meranti. It is there to add contrasts and beauty.
The carbon sleeve on the shaft is not needed for strength. The shaft alone is strong enough. The carbon helps protect the shaft from getting dings or wear from rings etc. We also liked the look of the carbon on the paddle. Just the sight of carbon on a shaft to some people makes them think that it is too stiff. Although, you will notice that the shaft still has flex.
T TOP HANDLE
I made my T tops to be comfortable. I used to hand shape all of these using Cedar for the beauty and the lightweight. It ended up being too soft and would dent easily. I moved on to Basswood that was harder and painted it black since there was no pretty grain. It still wasn’t as durable as I would like. Michael Giblin took my design and made a super light, durable, fiberglass T top. I am super happy with it.
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BALANCE
We try to keep the balance point of the paddle about one fist above the blade. Although some paddlers choke all the way up or all the way down, the majority grab about one fist up. This allows you to not feel the weight of the paddle. Again, most paddlers like light paddles but not all. Some like to feel something in their hands as they swing back on the return. Some like the blade to be heavier than the shaft(head heavy) so that they feel the blade help them sink on the press instead of having to press down with no help.
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FLEX
There are so many different opinions about flex. Too stiff and it hurts the body. Too much flex and it you won’t get the instant response. Some like enough flex so that it gives a slight whip before making the exit. We like it to be with slight flex. Enough to get the response but not hurt the body.
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DEGREE
We have stuck with the traditional 10 degrees on the blade. It has worked for years and after playing around with different degrees this was still the one. Our paddles are double bends but If you set them on a table touching the T top and the upper back side of the blade, you will have 10 degrees from the straight edge of the table to the blade. This would be the same as if it was a straight shaft lying on the table with a 10-degree blade.
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DOUBLE BEND
This could be different in the other parts of the world but in Hawaii and Tahiti double bends are where it’s at. I have heard many reasons why the double bend is used but for me, it is to relax the bottom hand. You can get a full fist on the shaft a lot earlier into your stroke at a more relaxed position than if you were to grab onto a straight shaft.
Some people like the straight shaft because you have a direct connection when driving down on the blade. I personally have never felt that I lost that connection by using a double bend.